Gulmarg needs no introduction. It is the poster child of Kashmir tourism. It is where Bollywood shoots its romantic songs, where the world’s highest golf course sits, and where powder-hounds from Europe come to ski.
But let’s be honest: Gulmarg can be overwhelming. Between the aggressive touts, the sold-out Gondola tickets, and the chaos of the main bowl, it’s easy to have a stressful experience in paradise.
But if you navigate it right, Gulmarg is magic. It is a place where you can ride above the clouds and ski down through virgin pine forests. Whether you are chasing snow in January or purple lupine flowers in June, here is the Ladakh and Kashmir Express no-nonsense guide to the Meadow of Flowers.
🚠 The Gondola: The Battle for Tickets
The Gulmarg Gondola is the second highest cable car in the world. It is the highlight of the trip, but booking it is a war zone.
- The Golden Rule: Book Online. Book Early. Tickets open 2-3 months in advance and sell out in minutes for peak season. DO NOT go to Gulmarg thinking you will “buy a ticket at the counter.” You won’t.
- Phase 1 (Kungdoor): Takes you to the bowl. Good for families, sledging, and eating Maggi.
- Phase 2 (Apharwat Peak): This is the real deal. It takes you up to 13,999 ft. The air is thin, the wind is fierce, and the view of the LOC and Nanga Parbat (on a clear day) is life-changing.
- Pro Tip: If you have a Phase 2 ticket, skip the activities at Phase 1 on your way up. Go straight to the second boarding point to beat the queue.
❄️ Winter (Dec-March): The Ski Capital
In winter, Gulmarg transforms. It becomes the only serious ski destination in the Himalayas.
- For Beginners: You don’t need to be a pro. Hire an instructor and ski gear for the day on the gentle slopes near the church or the baby slopes.
- For Pros: The “Shark Fin” and the backcountry runs from Phase 2 are legendary.
- The Tangmarg Reality: In winter, regular cars are stopped at Tangmarg (12 km below Gulmarg). You must switch to a local union taxi with tire chains. This is mandatory and non-negotiable. Be prepared for this extra cost and transfer.
🌸 Summer (May-Sept): The Lupine Dream
When the snow melts, the white turns to emerald green and purple.
- Strawberry Valley: Skip the pony. Walk to this hidden spot. In summer, you can actually pick fresh wild strawberries here.
- St. Mary’s Church: A Victorian-style church that looks like it was plucked from the English countryside. It sits alone in a meadow and is only accessible by a short trek or pony ride.
- Drung Waterfall: technically in Tangmarg, but a must-visit on your way up or down. In winter, this waterfall freezes completely into a massive icicle.
🚶 Beyond the Pony: The Outer Circle Walk
The biggest scam in Gulmarg is the pressure to take a pony for everything. You do not need a pony to enjoy Gulmarg. Take the “Outer Circle Walk.” It is a paved road that loops around the golf course and the bowl. It is flat, scenic, peaceful, and absolutely free. You will see the best views of the valley without a horse guide yelling in your ear.
🎒 Practical Guide: Logistics (2025-26 Edition)
1. The Guide/Tout Menace
As soon as you step out of your car, you will be swarmed by men offering to be “guides” or offering sledges.
- The Truth: You do not need a guide to walk around Gulmarg or to board the Gondola. Be firm, say “No thank you,” and keep walking.
- Sledging: If you want to sledge, bargain hard. The initial price quoted is often 3x the actual rate.
2. Accommodation Tiers
Gulmarg is the most expensive destination in Kashmir.
- Luxury: The Khyber Himalayan Resort & Spa. It’s world-class, with a heated pool overlooking the snow.
- Mid-Range: Hotel Heevan Retreat or Nedous Hotel (historic charm).
- Budget: Very difficult to find in Gulmarg itself. It is often cheaper to stay in Tangmarg or Drung and drive up for the day.
3. ATV Rides
ATVs are popular here, but they are expensive (often ₹2000+ for a short ride). It is a thrill, but the walk is often more rewarding.
Ideal Day-Trip Itinerary
- 08:30 AM: Leave Srinagar.
- 10:00 AM: Stop at Tangmarg (switch to chained vehicle if winter). Visit Drung Waterfall.
- 11:00 AM: Arrive Gulmarg. Head straight to Gondola entry.
- 11:30 AM: Gondola Ride to Phase 2. Spend an hour in the clouds.
- 01:30 PM: Return to Phase 1/Base. Lunch at a local restaurant (try the Gushtaba).
- 02:30 PM: Walk to St. Mary’s Church or do the Outer Circle Walk.
- 04:30 PM: Start return journey to avoid the evening rush hour traffic at Tangmarg.
Final Word from Ladakh and Kashmir Express
Gulmarg is beautiful, but it is commercial. To love it, you have to look past the noise. Look at the tips of the pine trees laden with snow. Look at the sun hitting Mt. Apharwat. That silence is still there, waiting for you.
Need Gondola Tickets or a Luxury Stay? Gulmarg sells out fast. Contact Ladakh and Kashmir Express for premium bookings and hassle-free transfers.
