If you think you’ve seen Kashmir because you’ve taken a Shikara on Dal Lake or ridden the gondola in Gulmarg, think again. Far beyond the tourist trail, guarded by high passes and wire fences, lies a world that feels less like India and more like a Central Asian fairytale.
Welcome to Gurez Valley.
Often called the “Switzerland of the East” (a cliché, but startlingly accurate here), Gurez is not just a destination; it is a time capsule. Located about 130 km north of Srinagar, this valley along the Kishanganga River was once the gateway to the Silk Route. Today, it remains one of the most protected, pristine, and culturally distinct regions in the Himalayas.
If you are looking for an offbeat adventure where the only traffic is a flock of sheep and the only noise is the roaring river, this guide is for you.
🏔️ The Journey: Crossing the Razdan Pass
The adventure begins the moment you leave Bandipora. The road climbs steeply, leaving the Wular Lake shimmering below like a silver sheet. Your gateway to Gurez is the Razdan Pass (11,672 ft).
- The Thrill: This is one of the most scenic drives in Kashmir. The pass is often shrouded in mist or snow even in summer.
- The Ritual: Stop at the Peer Baba Shrine atop the pass. It is customary for drivers to stop here to pray for a safe journey down the treacherous hairpin bends.
- The View: On a clear day, you can see the towering Harmukh Peak. As you descend from Razdan, the landscape changes—the lush Kashmiri maples give way to rugged, arid mountains and tall pines that resemble the topography of Gilgit-Baltistan.
🏘️ Dawar: The Heart of Gurez
You will arrive first in Dawar, the central township. It doesn’t look like Srinagar or Pahalgam. The architecture here is unique—interlocking log houses made of wood and mud, designed to withstand 8 feet of winter snow.
The Legend of Habba Khatoon
Towering over Dawar is the pyramid-shaped Habba Khatoon Peak. It is named after the famous Kashmiri poetess who, according to legend, wandered these hills in grief waiting for her husband, King Yousuf Shah Chak, who was imprisoned by Emperor Akbar.
- Must-Do: Visit the Habba Khatoon Spring at the base of the mountain. The water is crystal clear, icy cold, and locals believe it has medicinal properties.
The Log Hut Café
For a surreal experience, grab a coffee at the Log Hut Café. Run by the Indian Army, this café is arguably one of the best in the Himalayas. It’s dedicated to the memory of soldiers who served here. sipping cappuccino while looking at the barbed wire fencing of the Line of Control (LoC) is a sobering reminder of where you are.
🌲 Into the Wild: Tulail Valley
Most tourists stop at Dawar. Don’t be “most tourists.” To see the real Gurez, you must drive further west into Tulail Valley.
- The Vibe: Tulail is narrower, greener, and wilder. The Kishanganga river turns a turquoise blue here.
- The Villages: You will pass through villages like Sheikhpura and Badugam. The wooden houses here are centuries old, built without a single nail.
- The Last Frontier: Chakwali is the last village on the Indian side permissible for civilians (subject to army clearance). From here, the Pakistani posts are visible on the ridges above.
🗣️ Culture Shock: The Shina People
The people of Gurez are not ethnic Kashmiris; they are Dards. They speak Shina, a language that sounds nothing like Kashmiri.
- Ancestry: Historians believe the Dards are the original Aryans. They have distinct features and a culture that traces back to pre-Buddhist times.
- Hospitality: The warmth here is disarming. Don’t be surprised if a local invites you in for Namkeen Chai (salt tea) and Makki ki Roti.
🗓️ The Perfect 4-Day Itinerary
Recommended for Ladakh and Kashmir Express Travelers
Day 1: Srinagar to Gurez (Dawar)
- Drive: 6-7 hours.
- Route: Srinagar -> Bandipora -> Razdan Pass -> Dawar.
- Stay: Check into a homestay or the J&K Tourism Guest House in Dawar.
- Evening: Walk by the Kishanganga riverfront.
Day 2: Dawar & Habba Khatoon
- Morning: Trek to the viewpoint of Habba Khatoon Peak (you cannot climb the peak itself as it’s close to the border).
- Afternoon: Visit the Khandiyal Top for a 360-degree view of the valley.
- Evening: Coffee at Log Hut Café.
Day 3: The Tulail Expedition
- Hire a local sumo (or your own cab) and drive towards Tulail (approx 40-50km one way).
- Pack a picnic lunch to eat by the river near Sheikhpura.
- Return to Dawar by evening (driving at night is not recommended due to Army checkpoints).
Day 4: Gurez to Srinagar
- Start early. The morning light on Razdan Pass is golden.
- Stop at Wular Lake Vantage Point in Bandipora on the way back.
🎒 Practical Guide: What You Need to Know (2025 Update)
1. Permits
- Indian Nationals: You do not need a special permit beforehand. However, you must carry your Aadhaar Card (original). You will be registered at the Tragbal and Razdan Pass Army checkpoints.
- Foreign Nationals: As of recent updates, foreign tourists are allowed but require a permit from the District Commissioner (DC) Office in Bandipora. It is best to apply 3-4 days in advance through a registered travel agent.
2. Mobile Connectivity
- Jio has the best 4G coverage in Dawar.
- BSNL (Postpaid) works in some parts of Tulail.
- Airtel/Vodafone usually lose signal after Bandipora.
3. Accommodation
- Kaka’s Homestay / Wood Vibes: Famous local homestays offering authentic food.
- J&K Tourism Guest House: Great location, but needs prior booking at the TRC in Srinagar.
- Camping: You can pitch your own tent near the river in designated areas (ask the Army post nearby for permission first).
4. Best Time to Visit
- June to September: Perfect weather, green meadows.
- October: Stunning autumn colors (the valley turns gold).
- November to April: The Razdan Pass is closed due to heavy snow. Gurez becomes inaccessible by road. (The only access is by government helicopter service from Bandipora/Srinagar).
5. Safety
Gurez is very safe for tourists. The locals are incredibly pro-tourism. However, it is a border area.
- Do NOT photograph army bunkers, check posts, or bridges.
- Do NOT fly drones (strictly prohibited and will be confiscated).
- Always be polite at checkpoints; the soldiers are there for your safety.
Final Word from Ladakh and Kashmir Express
Gurez is not for the traveler who wants luxury malls and 5-star hotels. It is for the seeker. It is for the one who wants to sit by a river that flows into another country and wonder about boundaries.
Pack your bags, respect the silence, and let Gurez change you.
Looking to book your Gurez Expedition? Contact Ladakh and Kashmir Express for curated offbeat itineraries.
